Return to Eden

Yup here we are!

Friday, August 25

Cambodian Khmers

Cambodia + versus -,
POSITIVE~ The grandeur of religious building's one of which is the largest in the world.
NEGATIVE~ A history of disturbing violence, The killing Fields and the S-21.
POSITIVE~ Buddhism
NEGATIVE~ An estimate of 2 -3 million people murdered during the height of the war. From a population of 8 million.
POSITIVE~ Amazing food.
NEGATIVE~ A country of landmines, people with devastating stories of the past and allot with the physical scars to prove it.
POSITIVE~ Tolerant people with happy faces. NEGATIVE with some sense of underlying sadness.
POSITIVE~ Rice paddie fields EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!
NEGATIVE~ Drug abuse, child abuse, leaders betraying the people is complete corruption on the highest scale.
POSITIVE~ Monkeys that are wild and are free to roam, yet un-fearful of humans.
NEGATIVE~ Lack of concern for rubbish- rotting directly in the streets and in the water. Ha! they would not even consider the environmental impact they have on the world, they just don't care.
POSITIVE NEGATIVE??~ 2 Prime ministers and a king! not sure if this is good or bad!
POSITIVE NEGATIVE~ A war that only finished in 1999.
So as a result from all of this- the attitude is live for today and not for tomorrow.
Too many tuk tuks not enough tourists.
Desperate to make a dollar.... American that is.


We arrived in Siem Reap from Bangkok and were taken aback by the amount of people begging on the streets.
We were freaked out by "Duke" on the first night as he came up to us with arms stretched toward us, pleading for some money. Well, he would have, if he had any. We had no change at all so averted our eyes and walked past. We made a pact that night (in the safety of our air conditioned motel room -$8 per night) to accentuate the positives and to give money to the landmine victims and buy the kids food or drink.* We have also made a point of eating at restaurants that support street kids and rehabilitate them back into society with more skills to have a better life. We have donated food to orphanages; well, I am going there later so by the time you read this it will be done.
The government here does nothing to support these people as there is no welfare system at all.
We saw Duke again the next night and spoke to him and gave him a generous sum to cope with our averted eyes the previous night. As a 13 year old child (he is now 40) he was playing in the fields near his home of Battambang, where he found a land mine. He lost both arms from above the elbows, has huge scars across his body. But he seems happy enough. We met others who have one or two legs missing, and some who have all four gone. To a boy who was working at the War museum who really do not know how old they are as the rest of their family has been wiped out. it really shows the atrocities of war in its rawest form.
* Allot of the time kids beg for money to then give it to their boss who supplies them with only one thing, Glue. No clothing, food or shelter, they just have to make money for the man and they get their fix. Its really really sad. They use baby's to help with the extraction of money. Some Kids, yes I am talking 6 years and upwards; said they wanted powder formula for the baby, maybe some of them used it, maybe some of them sold it back to the store after I was gone. Who knows? I don't, but at least i tried to do the right thing..... yeah here I go again trying to save the world etc etc.

Anyhow, the Wat's were amazing. Really good to see that they have attempted to clear out the jungle and rebuild parts of them. To powerful to accurately describe, but they we majestic and STEEP! And yes hoping once back in Thailand I may be able to get some photos up.
I had my hair put in corn rows while in Thailand, as it was much cooler and easier to manage. People on the streets thought I was a bit of a novelty. Actually it wasn't just me, they stared at David also. Yes, yes, here comes the freak show!, nothing new there for me. Although it was new for Dave, yeah, it pretty much freak him out! A wander through Battambang Park felt like a celebrity walk on the red carpet in Hollywood! Smiling, waving, greeting the people... strange.
While we were at Angkor Wat we saw a group of monkeys grazing on the edge of the forest, so we went down to watch them for a while. After 10 minutes or so they wandered over to us. A couple of them were only little a little smaller than the size of your forearm- wrist to elbow. They decided that my hair braids were pretty cool and began playing with them and trying to eat the beads off the ends of them. One also grabbed my upper arm (very soft little hands) and began "kneading" it then looked up into my eyes, turned his head on the side and proceeded to attempt to take a bite!!!!!! David thought this was hilarious, unfortunately I did not.

While in Battambang - pronounced Batt-thom-bong - we did a Khmer cooking class. The trip to the market was an eye opener- You name it it was there for sale. Fish jumping out of small boxes trying to escape. Watching as they bash the fish on the head to half kill it then de-scale it. The underlying violence is still prevalent today. The cooking class was really good, we learnt a few new tricks - aside from how to kill a fish Khmer style! The only two downers we had was that everything we made was out of control spicy. All six of us couldn't finish our food! the other was that I watched 8- 10 kids sniff glue across the road the whole morning. But the upside was that our left overs went to the kids and so they didn't bother us for money when we left. Maybe that's why our food was so spicy??? We made 2 new friends Alex & Nick from Hamilton in N.Z. and hope to catch up with them on the snowfields one day. We caught a bus to Phnom Penh with them and had drinks and dinner that night. We stay at the Okay guesthouse which is more than that- its cool as! Internet, restaurant and good guys working here. Of course all waiters here freelance as a tuk tuk drivers (or maybe its the other way around!) so that makes for convenience for us and them!

The first day Map took us to the Tuol Sleng Museum or as it was know during the war S-21. It used to be an old high school. The Khmer Rouge now deny it existed. Where they believe (they have founds loads of records/confessions and photos) 20,000 men, women and children were imprisoned, tortured for confessions and eventually murdered. They mainly picked out anyone who was educated, lawyers doctors, teachers and anyone to do with the military. The kids were re-trained into killing machines, oh sorry, I meant guards. An Australian died here to you know, I believe he was a journalist. I can't explain to you why this happened, but I cried for the thousands lost. I could go on for a long time about the things that happened in this horrible place along with the other things that happened at the Killing Fields itself, but I feel it is to morbid. they have a large memorial set up there at the killing fields full of skulls, bones and clothes from the mass graves they uncovered there. It is truly gut wrenching and yes you can still see pieces of bone and clothing sticking out of the ground, remember it was only 30 years ago. I was 2 when it "ended". The really war did not end until 1999 according to the Cambodians. check out this if you want to know some more, or refresh your memory
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vietnam_War
Pol Pot was a pure evil person and I am quiet happy to say that he is dead, but unfortunately he died of natural causes and was never brought to justice.

I guess you call this a POSITIVE in a strange way- Now that there is not so much warring going on over here that a heap of shooting ranges have opened up. Before we went to the killing fields we took a side track to a range. For a (smallish) fee you can shoot pretty much any gun/ pistol you can think of, especially if it was made in Korea, Russia or America. Even a bazooka thingy!- but I tell you if there had of been any mention of blowing up cows, Acey would have been swinging punches- army dudes or not!!! That's just not right. It clearly states on the "menu" that you are not permitted to take a photo of it! bugger! So Daveo went for an AK-47 It was VERY loud! I think he had 20 shots, doing single ones first and then rapid for the last. Man what a noise! I took video and photos and he was allowed to keep the target paper he shot. A large grin on the face of Daveo puts this as being a positive! Although map asked us not to tell anyone that we went there - purely for the reason that he would have to pay off someone else. Desperate to keep every dollar for themselves. Fair enough.

Yesterday we strolled around the grounds of the Royal Palace where there is a Silver Pagoda. The whole floor is silver tiles (very cool) With two Buddhas, one is emerald- well its jade really and the other is gold with 2086 diamonds and rubies encrusted in it.
The rain is amazing it comes usually at 2.30 every day and really pours down its great! The locals get out in it and shower wash hair clothes that they are wearing the works its quiet funny to watch!
- Thats enough mayhem hey?! OK so that's all for this war torn exotic country that's slowly picking up its feet and trying to carry on and get its head above water. And there is allot of water around.

Its been hot, beautiful, really heart wrenching and oh so REAL.

Oh yeah its official we will be departing Bangkok at midnight on the 20th of September so that means.........
Back in Melbourne on the 20th, 12 noon! Do I need to say we expect some sort of welcoming party, even if it is a Wednesday! You have enough notice!

Tuesday, August 15

Koh Samui

Ok so I had nearly finished this post when the computer I am working on packed up AAAARRRRGGGHHH How frustrating. I will be ctrl and C More often this time!
Ok so I start again......

Sawadee Kaaa!
Our first couple of days were in Bangkok recovering from jetlag. Which we didn't do too well. As the story goes........ We arrived in BKK at 5am, got ripped off with the cab... Yes Karla, we did listen to you; but no sleep makes for stooopid farang (stupid forigner). Then we got to the Khao san palace inn and a room was not available until 10am. "Ok, lets go to that pub across the road" drink 4 LARGE Singha beers, and then wander around drunkly until 3am!! Oh dear! Anyhow once we had recovered; we found that Gerry was in town on biz, so more beer flowed our way! I must say that Gerry looks very similar to the King of Thailand.... I will post a photo of one of them and you can guess! Sorry Gerry!! Actually no I'm not!
We find ourselves on Koh Samui in monsoon season, its fun, relaxing and wet! So between spending short amounts of time on the beach and then running for cover on our verandah, we have read a fair amout of books! David has said that he is on the border line of boredom with reading!?! Strange creature!
I have to say that we have managed to steer clear of the buckets! For those who don't know its Samsong whiskey and red bull or coke! Yes that's right in a bucket! Messy.... I know that some who have been to Thailand before may be disappointed to hear this, but my liver is very happy thank you very much!
I have caught up with the people that Brownie, Karen and I stayed with when we were last here. Aot- the waiter, has not changed an inch! And squealed with delight when he saw me!! He even has the same old motorbike! He has just moved to Mae Nom on the NW coast.
Duane and Meeh also the same same, but living out of Lamai central. Lucky (the dog) was not so.... If you get my drift! Not long after we left last time; which was four years ago!! But very happy to say that SoongSam is still kicking around. Yes, he still stinky and still try to fight other dogs but has no teeth left!! They make soft food for him. But he is still a darlin, even if he does stink!
But it has not be all relaxing... No, no, no! We have done a days work and been to school! What???? I hear you say!? Let me explain.... The amount of stray dogs (and cats) on the island is truly sad. I know this is a problem all over Thailand. Most of them get by just fine. But lucky for those that do not, a German couple has set up the Dog Rescue Centre Samui (DRCS). They have two branches these days, one in Chawaeng and the other in Ban Taling Ngam. Anyhow, we spent a day volunteering at the one in Chawaeng. We washed and defleaed about 30 dogs! There was probably about 40 dogs altogether, some knew what we were doing and did not want to come near us, others just loved the attention! It was a little sad for some of them - we named one tripod - and another one dicky knee; you'll work it out. At least 6 of them had been severely run over by a car at some stage, having the physical scars to prove it. But you know what? They got around like there was no really problem at all, and they were happy! They knew that they would get a meal that night and hope fully not have to fight to much for that food. There was a real pecking order, and one of the less abled was strait in there when din-dins came! Check out their website above, - Soon there will be a photo of us washing a woofie on there also!!! (They said they are updating it soon.) I don't know what to tell you, but these people do amazing things for these helpless voiceless animals. They do not get support from the government and WSPA (worldwide- RSPCA) does not give them any money either. They rely on the generosity of good people. I know that there are places like this in Aust; but if you could see how most of these dogs live and are treated when they are not in the shelter, well it just breaks my heart. If you can afford it- sponsor a dog or cat, or donate some money, if you come here on holidays give them a hand! If not for the dogs and cats think of the good Karma it will bring you.

http://www.samuidog.org/

The schooling we did was an afternoon cooking class at Siam Kitchens. It was great fun, a class of four, a tour around the local market in Lamai. Cooking and eating the rewards. We now both have a certificate in 4 Thai dishes! Watch my house for dinner parties!!! And watch out Clarky, we also know now, how to make Scream Your Head Off Soup A.K.A. Tom Yum Soup!
We also managed (under protest from me) to semi adopt a hound just for a few days. Black and brown, mongral, 50% hound 25% aboriginal - likes walkabout! And 20% king of the beach 5% pure faithful. Who was hanging around the streets and beach in Lamai where we stayed. David named him Bruiser as it looked as if he had been in a few scraps. But fairly sure he is quiet able to hold his own as he seems to be king pin on the beach area. He was a very nice dog and very protective of me, no motorbike or Thai man was safe with Bruisy by my side! Oh Dear! But of course we had to leave. Bruisy would sleep on the verandah of our bungalow after being feed a couple of nights in a row, (again under some form of protest from me- "But I don't want him to rely on us because we are going!" "Oh but he is so cute and faithful I cant let him go hungry and ransack the rubbish bins." How do say torn between a rock and a hard place! Anyhow I have faith in the fact that he has survived without us up until now, and I am sure he will for along time to come. But I am going to send the DRCS an email about him and see if they can keep an eye on him.
I am still trying to resign myself to the fact that I can't save everyone and every living thing, but I will give it a good go!
So now we have found ourselves back in stinky Bangkok on Khao San Road. Nearly as bad as Soongsam.... I said nearly! Headiing to Cambodia tonight!!!!!

Friday, August 11

Wedding of the year!




Sexy bitches...................................................................................................... sorry every person who is offended by my language!!!!! Posted by Picasa

The Croatian countryside and 3 sexy girls..... oh yeah and Dave!

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Babes hangin off the back of a paddle boat! in Croatia


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Croatia



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Budapest and Vienna




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Bangkok and surrounds!




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